Salvadoran in South Florida

The word charamusca roughly translates in Salvadoran slang as "a mix of things," which is just what you'll get at the homey El Guanaco. The yellow building on Prospect Road caters to the large Salvadoran and Mexican population in that blue-collar stretch of Fort Lauderdale. But El Guanaco serves just as many customers from north of the Rio Grande. As such, the menu is inexpensive and eclectic, with both American- and Salvadoran-style breakfast served all day, daily specials such as Mondongo (tripe) soup and stewed oxtail, and a small but tasty selection of antojitos, snacks including tacos constructed on made-to-order corn tortillas and pupusas so satisfying that they could threaten to make El Salvador's national dish the favorite of South Florida. And for dessert, don't forget the charamusca, a homegrown Salvadoran popsicle made with coconut or tamarind juice.

Corn is king at La Molienda, as you would expect in a Salvadoran restaurant. Corn chips, corn tamales, corn in many of the soups of the day, and corn in the slightly overgrilled pupusas. The beefsteak is a pleasant surprise, juicy and medium-rare. If you can get over the fact that La Molienda was once a fast-food restaurant, you'll find yourself satisfied with the food and service -- and count your visit as a decent experience in Salvadoran cooking.